Nate's Computer: small printer kit

For printers with at least a 120 × 120 × 120 mm build volume (made for the AOSEED X-MAKER JOY). Every part fits within 114 × 114 × 118 mm.

Finished computer

1. What's in the kit

The parts in stl/ are already turned the right way up for printing. Import them at 100 %.

Group	Files	Prints	Joined by
Base	`base_000` … `base_230`	12	Glue + pins
Floor	`floor_LF`, `floor_LR`, `floor_CF`, `floor_CR`	4	14 × M3 × 10 countersunk screws
Keyboard plate	`kb_plate_L`, `kb_plate_C`, `kb_plate_R`	3	12 × M2 × 6 countersunk screws
Pedestal	`pedestal_000`, `pedestal_100`	2	Glue + pins
Monitor bezel	`mon_bezel_000` … `mon_bezel_110`	4	Glue + pins
Monitor shell	`mon_shell_000` … `mon_shell_111`	8	Glue + pins
Monitor rear cover	`mon_rear_cover_000` … `mon_rear_cover_110`	4	Glue + pins, then 4 × M3 × 12
Screen clamp	`mon_screen_clamp`	4	M3 × 10
Speaker cap	`spk_cap`	2	3 × M2 × 6 each
Badge	`badge_blank`	1	Glue
Mouse	`mouse_bottom`, `mouse_top`	2	4 × M2 × 8
Test pieces	`FIT_…`	5	—

File names ending _ijk give the tile's position: column (left → right), row (front → back), layer (bottom → top, or front → back for the monitor).

Electronics, screws and other hardware: see PARTS.md.
Filament: about 2 kg (about 4 kg for clear). Choose it with FILAMENT.md. An open printer can't print the filaments marked "enclosed printer needed". For a computer that runs inside, print the base and monitor in PETG at least; PLA is for the keyboard, mouse or a display model.
Strength: the glued tiles suit a computer that stays on the desk. For a sturdier build, use the large-printer kit, where every part is one piece.
Pins: about 2 m of 1.75 mm filament, cut into 11–12 mm lengths.
Glue: to suit your filament, see FILAMENT.md.
Tools:
calipers
small screwdrivers and hex keys
a craft knife
a sheet of glass or a mirror to glue on
a hot glue gun

Use the settings in FILAMENT.md for your filament. For this kit, also:

Print these first, in the filament you'll use for the rest.

Test piece	Check	If it doesn't fit
`FIT_holes_1p8_2p0_2p2_2p6_3p4_4p4`	1.75 mm filament pushes snugly into the 2.0 hole. M2.5 and M3 screws bite in the 2.2 and 2.6 holes. M3 and M4 slide through 3.4 and 4.4.	Change `PIN_D` and the hole sizes in `build.py`
`FIT_switch_plate_2x2`	4 switches click in and don't rattle	Change `SW_CUT` in `build.py`
`FIT_keyboard_ledge_corner`	The keyboard board drops into the corner with about 1 mm to spare	Check the board against SOURCES.md
`FIT_speaker_pod`	A speaker sits flat against the grille and the cap screws on	Check the speaker against SOURCES.md
`FIT_screen_corner`	The screen corner sits in the pocket	Check the screen against SOURCES.md

Then connect the PC, screen, keyboard board, speakers and mouse on the bench and check they all work.

Print each part as it is in the file. Don't rotate it.

Dry-fit every glued joint with its pins first. Glue on the glass sheet so the bottoms stay flat.

Glue the 6 front tiles (base_000, base_010, base_100, base_110, base_200, base_210), with a pin in every hole.
Glue on the 6 rear tiles the same way.
Fit the 40 mm fan behind the rear grille, blowing out, with 4 × M3 × 16 screws from outside.
Stick the sound card, amplifier and USB hub inside the left half with foam tape. Keep the speaker wires away from the HDMI cable.
Run the keyboard USB cable from the keyboard well, through the channel and tunnel, into the left half.
Screw on the 4 floor tiles (14 × M3 × 10).
Stick on the rubber feet:
4 under the front
8 on the floor tiles
one 8 mm foot in the rear-right corner

Stick 6 × 3 mm bumpons on the floor of the keyboard well, away from the switch sockets.
Drop in the keyboard board, USB-C at the back. Plug the USB cable in through whichever back pocket lines up.
Screw the 3 plate pieces onto the ledge (12 × M2 × 6).
Push the switches through the plate into the board, then fit the keycaps.

Glue each set separately:
the 4 bezel pieces
the 8 shell pieces
the 4 rear cover pieces
the 2 pedestal pieces
Lay the bezel face down. Fit the 0.8 mm gasket, then the screen.
Fit the 4 clamps with soft pads (M3 × 10). Run the screen cables down through the slot in the bottom.
Push the bezel and screen into the shell from the front and fix them with 8 × M3 × 20.
Speakers:
From inside the shell, push a speaker into each side ring, front against the grille.
Pass the wires through the cap's centre hole and screw the cap on (3 × M2 × 6).
Seal the hole and the rim with hot glue.
Run the speaker wires down through the slot in the bottom.
Stand the pedestal on the base and the monitor on the pedestal. Bolt them together with 4 × M4 × 35. The bolt heads go under the base deck; the washers and nuts go inside the monitor.
Screw on the rear cover (4 × M3 × 12).
Glue the badge into the recess on the bezel.

Take the donor mouse apart. Keep its board, sensor lens, switches, battery holder and receiver.
Fix the board on mouse_bottom between the rails, with M2 screws or hot glue. The sensor must sit over the window at the donor's original height. Shim with tape if needed.
Check that the two pegs under the buttons sit just above the mouse switches. If they don't, see SOURCES.md.
Close it with 4 × M2 × 8 and stick on the skates.

Stand the PC on the desk, front panel facing right.
Plug into the PC's rear ports:
power brick
Ethernet, if used
HDMI to the screen
screen power, on its own port
amplifier power, on its own port
sound card
USB hub (keyboard, touch and fan)
Run the power brick cable and any outside cables out through the notch at the bottom of the rear wall.
Lower the base over the PC so its front panel shows through the side window.
Switch on with the PC's own power button in the side window.
Do the heat check in FILAMENT.md.